Preparing for Puppy
It may have been a while since you’ve had a puppy in the home, or maybe this is your first. Being prepared will make puppy’s arrival and transition go much more smoothly for everyone. I’ve included action items and two lists – one to prepare physically and the other to prepare mentally.
Action Items
- Schedule vet appointment for your 4-day health guarantee. As stated in the agreement, you have four days to contest the health of your puppy.
- Schedule vet appointment for second puppy shots (ideally, this will coincide with the above-listed exam)
- At the appointment, give the vet the health information & microchip number I’ve provided you so they can have it on file.
- Vet should examine puppy, give second shots, perform a fecal test, deworm puppy, and prescribe next dose of Heartguard Plus.
- We keep our puppies flea free by preventing fleas on our adult dogs and cats. If you anticipate or later see that you are having trouble maintaining the flea-free status, please talk to your vet about options to get rid of or prevent fleas. We’ve had success with Nexgard for our adult dogs. Puppies can begin this preventative at 8 weeks old. I try to be minimal in treatments, so if you’re not having an issue with fleas, then you may want to skip this option. Baths are another options, but please note that flea shampoos are usually for ages 12+ weeks. Simple Dawn dish soap lathered for 5 minutes and then rinsed should remove fleas.
- Be sure to schedule puppy’s next appointment before leaving the clinic.
- Before bringing puppy home:
- Puppy-proof your home, similar to baby-proofing. Move things out of reach of a curious puppy, make electrical cords inaccessible, pick up any choking hazards, etc.
- Have a plan where puppy will go when you cannot watch him/her (i.e., crate, etc.).
- Set family member expectations and roles / duties. Consistency works best, so be sure everyone knows the game plan.
Mental Preparedness: Topics to Research
- Keeping puppy safe before being fully vaccinated
- People foods toxic to puppy and even one mint or piece of gum with xylitol
- Environmental hazards (the tiniest bit of antifreeze)
- Before switching foods, please review this FDA article that examines the possible link between certain types of dog food (or ingredients in dog food) and heart disease in dogs.
- Dog psychology / training. I personally like Cesar Millan. Consistency is key with training desired behaviors.
- General potty training info. (Puppy will need to potty right after waking up, after playing, approximately 10 minutes after eating/drinking.)
- Crate training (for potty training & puppy’s safety when s/he can’t be watched)
- I couldn’t find any one article I liked, so in a nutshell, crate training can be effective for potty training if the crate matches the size of the dog. The idea is dogs are relatively clean animals and do not wish to lay in their own excrement, so they will learn to hold it in until they are let out of the crate. If the crate is too big, puppy will potty on one side of the crate and lay on the other side (which defeats the purpose). Of course there are limits to this as far as ability and size/age of the pup.
- Introduce the crate in a positive manner so it’s seen as a “den” (natural to dogs) rather than a punishment.
- Beware of puppy potty pads. They may teach puppy it’s okay to potty inside and/or on rugs.
Physical Preparedness: Puppy Essentials
- “Large breed” puppy food – continue with the same food OR use the sample I give you to gently transition to a different food of your choice. Even if you stay with the Purina Pro Plan Large Breed Puppy line but a different flavor, it is still a good idea to gently transition. We opted for Salmon & Rice as a gentle first introduction to solid food, but you may consider other flavors. In any case, remember to stick with a food that says “large breed puppy.”
- Bowls for food and water
- Leash and collar – Your puppy has almost outgrown his/her first collar! The maximum neck size for the current collar is 10.2 inches (to help you choose the right size).
- ID Tag (once you think of a name)
- Puppy toys (things puppy is “allowed” to chew on. This is good for redirection. Avoid toys that have string or yarn that can unravel and be eaten.)
- Wire crate or dog carrier (Some wire crates have an adjustable interior divider to grow with puppy.)
- Pet Stain Remover (if you have carpet or rugs, just in case!)
- Gentle shampoo (Check the label to ensure it’s safe for your puppy’s age. For example, flea shampoos typically cannot be used until 12+ weeks. Basic Dawn dish soap is also acceptable, as it’s used in oil spill clean-ups for wildlife.)
- Pooper Scooper to keep the yard clean
- Deodorizing dog spray to help puppy smell good after being outdoors (I love CHI for Dogs!)
- Dog bed / mat – puppy may or may not like this. Scotty doesn’t like beds; Amber does. If you decide to get one, you may not want to include it in the crate as it may get chewed up. A blanket is another option and easier to wash. 🙂